What to expect?
The Kromme Rijn is an old branch of the Rhine that winds its way through the landscape, or in other words, runs “crookedly”. In Roman times, the Kromme Rijn was still an important waterway that ran via Utrecht to Wijk bij Duurstede. Nowadays, it is a beautiful piece of nature between Bunnik, Utrecht and Wijk bij Duurstede. And therefore perfect for a walk!
Why should you walk the Kromme Rijn route?
- The twists and turns of the river make your walk even more varied! A winding path along the water, reeds swaying in the wind, and occasionally a canoeist paddling by.
- This route has a rich history. You will walk past forts from the Waterline and remains from Roman times.
- Hello meadows, forests and old estates: you will walk straight into tranquillity!
Starting point: Stayokay Utrecht - Bunnik
After a long hike across the Utrechtse Heuvelrug (walking day 1), it was time to recharge our batteries. Stayokay Utrecht Bunnik is the perfect base for this: sleeping in a stately country house surrounded by greenery.
We wake up to the sound of birds singing, sip a cup of coffee in the Koetshuis, and sit down for a hearty breakfast. Enjoy a wide selection of healthy products. Don't forget to try the delicious hummus and muhammara!
The bunker path
From Stayokay, you can walk straight onto the Bunker path, where history literally lies at your feet. In the meadows, bunkers from the First World War suddenly loom up. The Bunkerpad is a lasting reminder of those turbulent times. Some of the bunkers have been decorated with flags and poems have been placed on the walls. Our favourite? “Hear when you walk, what if you stand still, you escape.” From bunkers to poetry!
Fort bij Vechten and the Waterline Museum
A little further on, the impressive Fort bij Vechten appears. The fort was part of the New Dutch Waterline, an 85-kilometre-long defensive line that ran from Muiden to the Biesbosch. In the Waterline Museum, you can learn all about this New Dutch Waterline.
Time for a parachute jump
Don't worry, we're talking about a virtual jump, but it feels just like the real thing! With VR glasses, you can see yourself taking off, floating above the landscape and diving through a flock of birds.
Fun tip for the kids
In addition to the VR experience, there is much more to discover here. In the museum, we can try our hand at repelling an attack. By pressing the right buttons, we can open the floodgates and flood the war zone, preventing the invaders from getting through. Oops, we're too late.
Walk around the fort
How does a kingfisher catch a fish and why is a gall wasp so special? You'll find out on a walk around the fort. Along the way, there are signs with information about the animals that live here.
Take a look inside!
A long avenue leads us to country house Oud Amelisweerd, which was built around 1770. It was once a summer residence for wealthy city dwellers, but is now open to the public and offers free guided tours. Definitely a must-see, as the interior of the country house is just as beautiful as the exterior.
Feeling hungry?
That's perfect! Opposite the country house is a beautiful terrace where you can sit among the trees and look out over the water. In the coach house, you will find a slow food restaurant, a traditional bakery and a shop selling local products.
During this trip, you can also stock up on fresh seasonal produce to take home or enjoy on the go in this cosy country shop.
Fort at Rhijnauwen
We continue our stroll and reach Fort bij Rijnauwen, the largest fort in the waterline. It can only be visited with a guide, but it is also an impressive sight from the outside. The defensive structure covers no less than 31 hectares and is hidden in the greenery.
But if we look closely, we can see a few concrete shelters among the bushes that were built for the First World War. Behind the footpath, you can still see the remains of old trenches. The Germans used the fort during the Second World War to store ammunition and as an execution site for resistance fighters.
Time for tea and pancakes? Head to Theehuis Rhijnauwen, close to the fort.
from nature reserve to skyline
Fortunately, the fort now has a peaceful role: it serves as a nature reserve where bats, badgers and kingfishers live, among other things. And then... plot twist! While we are still walking among pollard willows and singing birds, the skyline of Utrecht suddenly looms up. The contrast is beautiful: serene meadows versus urban bustle. It just goes to show: Utrecht has it all, and it's literally just around the corner!
Nienhof estate
Winding paths, ponds, bridges and old willow trees reflected in the water: on the way back, we take a detour via the Niënhof Estate. Formerly a monastery farm, it is now a true walking paradise. At the end, the path curves around, we pass an area with allotments and walk into the old centre of Bunnik.
2000 years of history
We conclude with perhaps the most beautiful part of the route: the centuries-old towpath along the Kromme Rijn, from Bunnik back to our hostel. We are on historic ground, because 2000 years ago, this was the northern border of the Roman Empire. Two thousand years of history, and you are walking right through it.
It's crazy to think that we are in one of the busiest regions of the Netherlands and yet you can find such an oasis of peace here. A green landscape with meadows and patches of forest stretches out into the distance. Getting lost? Not an option! All you have to do is follow the river, which will take you to Utrecht.
Did you know that this area is also ideal for exploring by water?
The entire route can be downloaded offline. Click here for directions with a route map and a GPX file for navigation on your smartphone.
Extra information
- The official ANWB walking route Kromme Rijn is 11.6 kilometres long.
- The route is easy to follow via walking junctions.
- The starting point of the route is Waterliniemuseum Fort Vechten, but you can also start the walking tour at other points.
- Please note: dogs are not allowed on the Niënhof Estate, so you will need to take an alternative route for part of the walk.
- Accessibility: by train via Bunnik station. If you are coming by car, you can park at the Fort bij Vechten car park, Achterdijk 12, Bunnik, at a reasonable rate.
Fancy more walking routes?
We totally get it! Fortunately, you don't have to scour the worldwide web yourself, because we have already collected the most beautiful walking routes for you.
